Kushti

Pehlwani, also known as Kushti, is a form of wrestling contested in the Indian subcontinent Practiced at least since the 5th millennium BC

Although wrestling in the Indian subcontinent saw changes in the Mughal era and the colonial period, the training regimen has remained the same for over 150 years. Fledgling wrestlers may start as early as 6, but most begin formal training in their teens. They are sent to an akhara or traditional wrestling school where they are put under the apprenticeship of the local guru. Their only training attire is the kowpeenam or loincloth.

A conversation with Dheeraj, a work colleague, during a visit to India, my naive question about the indian wrestling I’d heard of many years ago .... a cousin of Dheeraj knew a friend .......

The following day we were in the back of a taxi .... speeding across Hyderabad.

It took ages to navigate the old town’s chaotic streets until they became too narrow for the car, then we walked for 20 minutes or so, my friend asking locals for directions, I’d lost all sense of direction ages ago, we were far from the main roads and tourist hot spots.

We finally arrived in front of a nondescript concrete block building painted azure blue, doors bolted shut.

Three traditional Indian wrestlers in loincloths perform a ritual at a glowing red shrine inside a blue and red mud-floor akhara, with framed religious images and garlands on the wall

Over the space of the next half hour 10 young men arrived from their day of work or study, I respectfully kept to a corner, occasional uncertain glances my way .… I sensed no one mentioned I was coming? Later I was told that I was the first foreigner to ever visit.

The first thing which caught my attention was the small size of the room, dimly lit by a single fluorescent strip. In the centre was a concrete bunker with a huge pile of dirt in the middle. The men took turns changing into loin clothes in the wardrobe-sized change room.

It was unbearably humid and hot, and so dark.

They took turns spreading the dirt using massive spades, mixing in ghee so the dirt clumped.

then gave thanks and burnt incense to their Master whose picture hang on the wall.

cover their bodies in dirt, a ritual

Shirtless wrestlers dig and level a red clay training pit with shovels inside a traditional Indian kushti akhara, surrounded by blue walls and red lower panels.
A traditional Indian wrestler kneels in a red clay pit while another pours mud over his chest during kushti training, with other wrestlers preparing in the background.

strange and unfamiliar warm-ups commenced, rope climb, swinging wooden clubs, push-ups, exercises which seemed more like rhythmical dances

I was hesitant in taking photos, a familiar feeling for me when capturing something unique, personal. Gradually we became accustomed to each other, smiles widened and I relaxed.

My friend explained they were training for competition the following weekend, so training wouldn’t be “overly serious” today ,  I returned a look as if he was joking, they looked serious to me!

sweat mixing with the dirt and ghee, grappling became more serious, severe slaps to sides of heads reverberating in the tiny concrete box

Wrestler climbs a thick rope in a blue and red Indian akhara while others train on the red mud floor, showing traditional strength training in a kushti gym.
Two mud-covered wrestlers grapple in a low stance during traditional Indian kushti practice, surrounded by other trainees in a hazy red clay wrestling arena.
Group of wrestlers perform push-ups on a red clay mud floor inside a traditional Indian akhara, with blue walls, a red shrine area, and training activity in the background.
Wide view of a traditional Indian kushti akhara where shirtless wrestlers practice grappling and conditioning on a red mud floor beneath blue walls, religious portraits, and a glowing shrine.
Mud-covered Indian kushti wrestlers practice a fast takedown in a red clay akhara pit while fellow wrestlers watch against blue and red training-room walls.
Two traditional Indian wrestlers grapple on the red mud floor of a kushti akhara near a red shrine, Ganesh idol, framed portrait, and flower garlands.
Two mud-covered kushti wrestlers lock legs and arms during ground grappling practice on a red clay akhara floor, surrounded by other trainees.

Regularly I became lost in the moment, completely forgetting my camera, my sense was of tremendous but understated strength which you don’t get from lifting weights in the gym, combined with lightening speed,

at completion of training I was welcomed to come down and join the wrestlers in the pit, each wrestler shook my hand, I was surprised with how gentle their handshakes were with me after seeing the controlled violence earlier

a warm farewell from gym’s entrance, a final photograph

and it was over.

My journey and moment with these special men was so mesmerising it literally took until later that evening for my experience to truly sink in.

Group portrait of Indian kushti wrestlers covered in red clay outside a blue akhara entrance, with sandals, a motorbike, and Hindi signage showing “बेगम बाजार” and “हैदराबाद.”
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